Cartier’s Elite Take On The Sports Watch - Cartier Santos De Cartier Medium

Despite talking about this watch all the time on this channel, we have never properly reviewed the Cardier Santos. Well, that is going to finally change with this video as we shine a spotlight on the legendary Cardier Santos Day Cardier medium. A piece that blends historical significance with an elegant everyday wearer in Cardier's unique style. And before we get into this review, if you've not been in the loop about all the different offers on our website through the holidays, check the link in the description. We have all of our different holiday offers that will remain until the end of the holiday season. We've been going through a variety of these gift with purchases and a lot more. So, hit that page that will give you all the different offers that we have going on for a limited time during the holidays. If you're in the market for a watch, definitely check out that page and head over to teddystasar.com. The Santos is not only the first pilot watch. It's not only the first sports watch. It's not only the first purpose-built tool watch, but it also can rightly be said that the Santos is one of the pieces responsible that changed the trajectory for the modern men's wristwatch. Until its conception in 1904, men didn't commonly wear wrist watches. The wristwatch began as a woman's accessory referred to as wristlets, and men carried pocket watches as was the fashion of the day. To begin the story of the Santos, we have to look at the pioneering Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos Dumont. Santos was born into a wealthy family of coffee producers. But it was the burgeoning field of aviation that really captured his imagination. Having moved from Paris to study engineering, he was involved in the development of both lighter and heavier than aircraft. flying his first balloon in 1898. He built a series of motorized airships, notably flying his fifth airship around the Eiffel Tower in July of 1901 and later began experimenting with heavier than aircraft such as gliders and eventually motorized airplanes, including his famous Bird of Prey biplane. During his flight, Santos Dumont used a pocket watch, but found it inconvenient to take his hand off the controls to check the time. Enter Louie Cardier, the grandson of Louis Francois Cardier and a friend of Santos Dumont, who was managing the Paris branch of the company. After Dumont discussed his issues with his pocket watches with Louisie, Cardier created a wristwatch for Santos, who was delighted by its newfound convenience. And this is the very first Cardier Santos and by many accounts became the first pilot and sports wristwatch ever. The original Santos already possessed many of the qualities we associate with the line today. The distinctive looking time piece featured a flat square case with rounded corners, its trademark square bezel, the classic Cardier Roman numeral dial in white, an ornate cabashon jewel crown, and most of all, the revolutionary idea of a men's watch worn on a strap. The watch saw a wider release in 1909 when Cardier collaborated with Edmund Jair. The prominent movement maker who would later become part of JLC. Like many Cardier references, the fortunes of the Santos rose and fell with the war and economic forces with a relaunch in the 1970s. It was reborn as the Santos de Cardier, which now offered the watch on a bracelet, a response to the growing appetite for watches of this sort. The bezel became bolder with larger screws now part of the visual language with the bracelet sharing the screws of the bezel in its design. Another stylistic cue was the availability of a two-tone version, something of an 80s trope that permeated throughout the industry then. And now this has become one of the trademark looks associated with the Santos to this day. The modern Cardier Santos lineup now includes a broad array of references from quartz to high herology pieces including the stunning Santos Dumont skeleton watch rendered in rose gold and featuring a tiny replica of a Santos Dumont airplane as its micro rotor. To be sure, the Santos line is one of Cardier's most successful model families and one of its most versatile. Now we'll look at what is my personal favorite Santos from the Contemporary lineup. At least from more the entry position. This is going to be the medium version in stainless steel. Now, a couple things as we dig in here. Number one, this watch is very well-loved as you can tell by all the scratches, and that'll be a talking point as we continue. And then number two, yes, I know the titanium has recently come out, but at the time of recording this in October, I have not had the opportunity to really try that one on. So, I'm only going to speak to this format, this watch, because that's really where I've spent more time with. And also, I think this is more in alignment with this long-standing legend. So, if you were reading the dimensions of this watch on paper, you might likely rule this one off as being too small for you. It does have a case width of 35.1 mm, a height of 8.82 mm, and a lug to lug of roughly 42 mm. Those dimensions seem to be on the smaller side, which they are, but remember, a watch with a square or rectangular case is not going to mirror that of its circular equivalent, tending to wear larger by comparison. Now, if I had to give a point of comparison to a round case for the Santos, I would reference the classic wearing dimensions of a piece like the Datejust 36 mm. It's a watch with a similar idea of being more capable of pulling off than many give it credit for. The Santos's trim case height also contributes to the wearing experience, easily slipping under a shirt cuff while adding to the elegant visual profile. As the shining star within the Rhmont family of luxury brands, Cardier is equally known for their jewelry, and the Santa's finishing reflects that. The screwed bezel receives a glorious high polish, the focal point of the case's entire aesthetic, which in turn has shown its wear over time. This is absolutely going to be a scratch magnet. The bezel and the sapphire crystal feature a subtle curve that also enhances wearability, making the case appear more refined, and a polished bevel also adds to the luxury vibe. A delicate counterpoint to the fine brushing that makes up the rest of the finishing, including the bracelet. Yes, this is a watch that is also sporty, too, as it is evidenced by the 100 m of water resistance. The push-in crown features a seven-sided edge and the Cardier hallmark of a faceted cababashon jewel in synthetic blue spinel with a look that evokes blue sapphire. The solid brush case back is screwed into place and features minimal engraved text along with the Cardier word. As an aside, if you're a fan of the retro look, the two-tone version features a yellow gold bezel and bracelet screws for some extra punch, which might be my favorite two-tone watch on the market today. However, it does add thousands to the retail price. Given how the bracelet of the Santos is such a significant part of giving it its look, it better be good in practice and not just look the part. Thankfully, it does. Cardier leans into its status as a prestige jewelry maker with finely brushed single links punctuated by those trademark screws resting at the far sides of each link. The butterfly clasp is hidden underneath a rectangular logo and is actuated by dual push buttons. Construction is milled with a premium feel of quality throughout. And although there's no capacity for micro adjustment, the links themselves are small enough to get a pretty solid fit. So, it shouldn't be as much of an issue compared to others out there. But probably my favorite thing about this bracelet is just this on the-fly smart link system is what Cardier calls this. To adjust the links, all you have to do is press the button on the back of the links that have this feature and the pin will pop out to allow you to disengage it from the connection point. Two other aspects of this design that I love are the fact that you do not need a tool to do it. I was able to just by pressing my fingernail against the button uh get the job done. And then the pin is also locked into place so it's not going to fall out uh and it's going to stay attached to the link so you won't have the situation of losing one by mistake. Now this is definitely a watch whose bracelet is a key component to its identity. So strap changes are lower priority. But if you are the type of person that's a serial swapper in the strap department, the lug width of the medium version is 19 mm. The watch does come with a second strap in calf skinin leather. And your Cardier boutique will be more than happy to be able to sell you a number of different additional straps if you want to do so. All while utilizing their quick switch interchangeability system, which speaking of is absolutely phenomenal. It is simple to be able to take this bracelet off. You just press the tab on the back and you're good to go. A Cardier dial is one of the most instantly recognizable in watchmaking. And no matter the model, most standard Cardias share several traits. On the white opaling dial of the Santos de Cardier, you'll find the classic black Roman numeral hour markers featuring the hidden Cardier mark at 7:00 along with the distinctive railway minute track that borders the inner dials periphery. The text is refreshingly minimal with the Cardier word mark below 12 and automatic above six. And there's no date on this version unlike the large option. Now, I lean towards the no date for a watch like this. However, like anything in the world of watch collecting, the public is probably going to be divided on this point. The sword hour and minute hands along with the stick second hand are all rendered in that unmistakable blue that Cardier uses on its white and silver dials. This is a dial that's as classic as a navy blazer or a little black dress. It just works. However, if you do crave a little bit of color, Cardier now offers an extremely attractive sunray dial in either deep blue or rich green that does come with a few key differences from the white version, such as the Roman numerals being applied and the addition of loom on the hands. If purity is the goal in mind, this version we're looking at today is probably the way to go. Perhaps it's because of their typical customer base that's very wide reaching, but Cardier usually is pretty cy about the details of its movements. Historically, they've been outsourced from the likes of JLC, Eta, and others. Fine movements in their own right, but regular production in-house Cardier movements are a relatively recent development. It wasn't until 2010 that Cardier released the caliber 1904 PSMC, the first mass-produced manufacturer movement in their history. Now, still, the brand doesn't really emphasize most of its movements, hiding many behind a closed case back, as is the case here. Regardless, it probably helps to keep the case a bit thinner, and the caliber 1847MC, named after Cardier's birth year, is a movement that does its job suitably. The automatic 1847 has a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour or four hertz. It hacks and hand winds and has a power reserve around 40 hours, although Cardier generally doesn't list movement specs. The 1847 has 23 jewels and sports some machine Geneva striping behind that closed case back. It's a moot point here, but Cardier has displayed casebacks in the past, such as in the drive day Cardier, but unless you're talking about one of their high herology skeletonized models, movements are generally closed to the public. In terms of accuracy, I did throw this one on the time grapher, tested it across five different positions, just like a chronometer test, and the watch ran well. It was running at minus4 to 0 seconds a day. So, with all this out of the way now, let's talk a little bit more about my general thoughts on the San Jose Cardier. A few things as you look at this example and just how it has aged. And many people when they look at a watch, if you're the type of person that wants something to be pristine and not show its wear, uh this is not going to be the watch for you. You could see right now this is this has attracted so many scratches to the top of the case. I personally think it looks pretty cool. It has more character, but if you were going to buy this like pre-owned, for example, and you you got something like this, I mean, it looks like it's been through a rough time. Also, in terms of just some of the positioning of this watch, it's more of an industrial movement you're dealing with here. The specs aren't going to jump off the page. And because this is a Cardier, yes, there's this history of this being this sports tool watch, it it still is going to be a bit more delicate than others of this typical sports or pilots genre. But I want to dwell on that idea of this genre because the reality of the Santos is it's very hard to classify it as a watch of one specific genre. Is it a sports watch? I guess so. Absolutely. Checks off many of those boxes. Is it an watch you could wear every single day? It does it fit that genre? I would say yes. Again, is it a pilot's watch? Well, you can't dispute its history. It has some of the strongest history of any watch that's ever been created. So, what exactly is the Santos? And when you're trying to think about your collection, why would you decide to go for a Santos? I actually don't think it's because it checks off any of these classifications. I think it's the idea that it doesn't perfectly fit in any of these. It fits in all of them nicely, but the Santos, unlike almost any other watch in its category, is its own category. It's not really perfectly an everyday watch. It's done in Cardier's flavor. It's not necessarily all the characteristics that you would think of a pilot's watch, but at the history of the whole idea around pilots watches, it was the first. And then you think about the everyday watch. This might be a little too refined for some that are out there. But I don't think that's looking at this watch the right way. How I look at the Cardier Santos beyond just being this beautiful object, it's this dichotomy of this harsh industrial technique and how you have these exposed screws, the crown guard, and then you have this refined beauty that we associate with Cardier, the cababashon crown, the Roman numerals, the railway track, the simplicity of what is being presented here. It fuses those ideas so well together that if we didn't have a hundred years of backstory behind it to know this as an icon. You would see this for the first time and see this crazy fusion of contrasting ideas. But this watch is so much a part of culture. Cardier is such an iconic brand that we don't even second guessess these two very polarizing ideas being brought together with its design. And that's my ultimate point around the Santos. doesn't really have a direct peer. Yes, it could say yes to all of those different genres of representing those ideas, but more than anything else is it is its own thing and it's impossible to imitate. And if you're somebody that is drawn to this design and like many over the last century, they have been, it makes sense why this watch is what it is. When it was initially created, it was done so with a task in mind, but now it's evolved to mean so much more. It's a watch that has become an icon and many have tried to imitate concepts of the Santos throughout the years, but they always come up short. But all right guys, that's my take on the Cardier Santos Day Cardier. What is your take on this watch? Uh, I really enjoy this piece, but it's a hard one to put in any box because it is so many different ideas in one. Leave a comment down below. Do you own this watch as well? I know this is a very popular watch. There's probably people out there that are watching this video that own this piece. like to get some ownership stories as well in the comments. If you enjoyed the video, please give this one a thumbs up, subscribe, hit the bell icon. Really do appreciate that. Are there other watches you want us to review from Cardier? I mean, we've reviewed a few watches from Cardier over the years, but this is a brand that I know so many people have this fondness of and myself included. Uh, and love to hear what you guys think about maybe reviewing some more of their pieces in the months and years to come. Also, check out teddy bales.com. Full authorized dealer for over 35 brands. Every purchase from our website comes with quick and fast fulfillment, dedicated customer support, and a full factory warranty for all the products that we offer. How we're able to keep doing what we're doing here is through selling watches online and in store. So, if we could ever help you out, get your business when it comes to buying a watch, we'd love to do so. It allows us to keep doing what we're doing here, and we love what we do. But guys, thank you again so much for watching. Be well and I'll see you all very