The Rolex Land-Dweller, The Mini Patek Philippe Cubitus, New Releases From A. Lange & Söhne, & More

this week's episodes of hinki radio are proudly sponsored by our partners at UBS stay tuned later in the episode for what we're planning this year in celebration of all things horology and keep an eye out for the return of UBS House of craft all right everybody we are here at watches and wonders day 1 2025 in a secret corner of the pal Expo we're never going to reveal where we are because then all the fans will come up and autographs from Rich and tant um so obviously the big news is land dweller the Rolex land dweller we have our man Rich foran over here who wrote I think the seminal piece on it I think top of the news charts these days um with with the land dweller so tell us about it rich yeah so it's uh rolex's brand new model I called it the most important model in decades uh it was leaked we saw it on Roger Federer's wrist it features their first ever in-house developed escapement which is an indirect impulse escapement uh the details are deep and you can go to the story for those but the Bare Bones of it is that the movement features two silicone balance Wheels etc etc it features a integrated bracelet which causes a bit of a stir in the honeycomb dial uh I love the thing I'm so excited to see it but uh what do you guys think so it's really like a little bit of like reference 1530 oyster quartz beta 21 Vibes are almost real Genta in in some ways it's that type of 70s Vibe and really Royal Oak is in some not ask but is that's right uh never es always is that's right that's an inside joke don't worry about it um what do you think I don't I mean okay to be clear I like the case I like the bracelet I like the vibe I like Rolex being Innovative not sure about the dial I'm 100% there with but I haven't seen it in person so who knows right but Rolex does that thing don't they with like modern novelty dials like a palm leaf or flower or whatever so maybe this is just like the beginning uh I don't know about that because I feel like normally when they do something like that it's usually everything else the same the numerals here are different you know the proportions are different even the dial proportions to the bezel seem a little like off so for me I think when you throw so many elements in there that's when it starts getting confusing P FR was interesting cuz it's just a datejust and then you put that in this I don't know like I honestly would have been I think it would have been cooler if you saw that escapan go into something completely normal you know I think that would have that would have felt like a Rolex move for like 10 years ago right isn't isn't the way we're feeling right now heavily influenced by seeing leaks and you see that dial and it's leaked and rumored that it's a honeycomb down you're like wo that's strange the integrated bracelet and then now when we're actually present to with the product and it's more about the movement and all of that stuff's a little more secondary it's hard to divorce from what we saw first which is the leaks can I just say as somebody who isn't really mechanically minded if it had been put in something that was already in the catalog I wouldn't be thinking twice about the movement no well that that's the issue with Rolex is like Rolex often makes these like fairly significant you know technical innovations but they put it in a day date which like you see on your grandfather or somebody that looks like their grandfather like me like you know it's just something that really you just don't pay attention to they're they're always innovating this time they chose to give it a whole new canvas and say we're going to put it in a whole new line which really also to to your to your story uh rich like is not a date just but it's above it not a day date it's below it it's a whole new thing in the middle which is always interesting because that was always like big brother little brother father son whatever you want to call it now there's this new stepchild in in the middle so to speak it's kind of interesting the just on the design front it's like yes it's a cool back to Oyster quartz but it is like a modern look yeah and I don't know that's an interesting move it's thin yeah it's thin open case back yeah I mean it's it's really I mean I've said this elsewhere recently but like Rolex is doing a lot of stuff that is really un Rolex this is for sure one of them I mean to leak the watch purposfully like that like FX never even two years ago they never would have done that is it as on Rolex as the Emoji watch that was my Line in the Sand oh that's a great question that was a turning point in the on Rolex of Rolex um like sincerely though um really an amazing thing obviously the number one story on our side the number one kind of thing people are talking about what else are you guys psyched by I mean I'm always going to say longa I think you like longa yeah no you know I I tend to appreciate it from afar you know no no I I like like I always like what they're doing especially when they're they kind of come out with solid releases that you know I think they're mind-blowing in a way that's not very show offish um show offish show offish you know not show offes right that's that's the yeah yeah show offish um we're we're writers here right I think yeah some um some of us at least we're trying um no but I think you know longa continues to to just iterate in a way that I think only they tend to do um you know obviously the headliner is going to be the Min repeater perpetual which is I mean impressive watchmaking right I know in your piece you kind of compare it to the category definer which is pedex um and you know I think they do a good job of still feeling like manga uh while trying to compete in that category like what do you think is are are they doing a good job of that well I mean let me I'll let me take a step back so if if I may this I I don't want to embarrass our young friend here this is his first watches and wonders right yeah and how do you feel about it you know it's it's it's good it's busy okay where did you see the the longas first oh that's right we uh we saw them in um we saw them a few days ago we went over to the sort of uh little hybrid Boutique where vron um and I believe longar space um and you know you were filming your your interview with willhelm every year you know as you do um and you know we got to see them in person which is really nice outside of the booths right um in in natural lighting getting to play with the movement um yeah and so I think that's also setting the the experience for me which is being able to see that actually in in context of how one would normally get to exp yeah and I I I think that's where I was headed with it is like I think seeing that stuff kind of ahead of the schedule this is such a like we're wearing well you're not wearing a tie you're wearing a purple suit we're we're all wearing tie it's actually oine it's over yes um wi won over here yeah I mean but like that well that day I guess I was wearing a jacket cuz I was on camera but like I was wearing sneakers like it's much more like informal setting today we're all dled du and like to see that type of watch which is like it's a real grand complication like a literal one um on the wrist of Wilhelm just wearing it around and then the Prototype you know that that changes the per the perspective at least for me on on how you've used something that's 700 plus thousand and then they also had a few other watches that I really like like the the honey gold Odysseus yeah talk to me about honey gold to be clear everyone who works at hinki is a longer head okay like because we know what watches are we're like longa heads okay tantan and I are friendship blossomed through like our appreciation of long literally a z work minute repeater on honey gold that is what cemented our friendship it's like kind of a beautiful story um s talk to me about honey gold yeah Ben why are you so excited like I think for me it's it's funny I mean you have been in this industry for a while now you know you've been doing this for for a long time and you you know it's it's very clear when Ben gets excited about something because it's a reaction that you usually tend to not see every day at least yeah for sure and the way I always describe it is you when you first saw that watch you look like a kid in the Candy School 100% right you have a picture of it and I have a picture of it picture it's uh look I I've been doing this a long time you know this is I think sih or whatever this is called 15 or so I've been doing this like 17 years which is and uh I still like when something really hits me it really hits me that watch really hit me hard and I was like the minute I saw it I was like I want it can I have it and then I had to like negotiate to see if I could even get it and I'm not kidding um and you know it's like it takes something like I I love long the quality of langa is superlative it is I'll say this on the record happily it is better at scale than patac AP blah blah blah if you're talking about every watch right an entry-level watch from longa is better than an entry-level watch from from most of those other brands in my not so humble opinion the odys is never really jumped out of me because I I love the Royal Oak I love the Nautilus I've owned those for 10 plus years each I adore them the Odus was like I just don't need another steel watch or another titanium watch even this watch honey gold to me is something so special now we kind of see with sand gold and AP it is such an unique color unique weight uh it is so much harder like it really feels harder with your fingernail than than a standard gold and so to do a full bracelet in honey gold with a brown dial I pretty much dress like this every day so it works pink rose tones whatever with Brown yeah chef's kiss and I know whatever come for me if you want I'm undoing my I hate rose gold opinion whatever I'm I'm I'm fickle uh I think rose gold brand cubitus which we should line up for our next topic of com yep here for it so before we get to that let me just wrap up longa with our guy over here wrap it up 34 mm tell me about it that is the silent killer I think rich rich rich you like that watch was going to te this up because I have not seen long yet but I want to know what it looks like in person it is it is proportionally so different than any of the current or you know I would say past five years or so any of the time only watches they've done um it is longa smallest caliber they developed in house um ever you know and also interesting anniversary year for them they're celebrating anniversaries or not anniversary year but they're celebrating 75 movements developed in house which is crazy to think about and I think that counts you know variations when you're doing a lumen movement and you're removing some power Reserve you know indicator or whatever but 75 is a lot to do right and so I think it's cool where that such a like a big number goes into such a small sort of movement that in any other brand I think would just immediately get passed on I think you would just be like okay they just did a smaller watch so what but they really like actually focused on developing something from the ground up so I mean I was reading what Tony deas was saying and long story short movement got a completely redesigned going and 72 hours of power Reserve so the current 181 15s is like that bit it's tiny and it's like it's 4 something millim thin I think it's like 4.8 millimeters thick right um and just to have that where the current 185s in a much larger case have 50 hours of power Reserve you know like it's cool where this is becoming their next thing and you know for context too last year they discontinued basically every small watch they made every single saxonia time only all gone and so I was like okay well there's got to be something up here I did not expect something like that from the ground up and even smaller yeah right smallest one was a 35mm seonia now 34 it wears incredible what are the combinations is it honey and um blue dial so there's it's two blue dials one in white gold and one in Pink Gold okay so it's pink pink yeah yeah and lunga doesn't do blue JS too often as you know you know um they whenever they do it it's kind of for a special occasion and I believe most of them are usually time limited so I would venture a guess that we probably won't see this for a long time they're not really disclosing that or talking about that at all but they never last you know longer than five years or so yeah I mean I have to say I got to Trad on with with tent like it is a Chic little watch I mean at 34 is like you're making a statement that's your that's your it's uh definitely definitely my range of the spectrum and I the first gen saxonia in 34 and I think it's the second gen 1815 it's actually like 35 and a half two of my favorite watches I've ever put on my wrist so beyond excited to see that thing okay that's a really big state coming from Rich if there's one I'll put the modern qualifier on there just of course if there's one modern longa that's for Rich it's 100% this watch because it's and the thing is you know you've seen the 34mm seonia I don't think you're ready for the proportions again it's it's I believe it's uh 6 point it's 6 point something millimeters thin for for context the saxonia thin I think is 5.9 so it's just a hair thinner but just the way that I mean the the previous aonia that you were talking about you know they're they're a little thicker bit taller they're a bit taller and so just putting this on your wrist it's it's you're going to like it I love the dichotomy of long it's like zwa and then this yeah like hamburger and like the slice of American cheese and I respect that no I agree and then I I ran into our good friend of the show Gary steinard yesterday and he's really we love him we love iconic he doesn't need any more love but we love G we love him ran into him and he said what's going on what's you he's here reporting for the Atlantic or Bloomberg and I mentioned the 34mm and he said oh my God like that that is my watch and he actually had another watch that he was about to order and he's like I'm not ordering that I'm going to do this and then I was dming with um this guy that used to work here we had to let him go cuz he was drinking on the job Tony trainer oh yeah and um S ragad I know he was just and he was like this is the watch of the show no doubt about it so the the the nerdy skinny little white guys love this watch for sure oh yeah Tony likes everything I like so that makesense right Tony yeah you're the original Tony trainer yeah um but it's just fun to see like kind of friends of the show that we all love to know very well also really love special thanks again to our partners at UBS for their support of hinki radio last October hinki and UBS brought together some of the most influential personalities and brands in the industry to celebrate All Things watches this year we're partnering again with expanded events across the US in addition to our fall House of craft in New York stay tuned to hinki for updates on these events and other projects with our friends at UBS now back to the show okay can we talk about PCH now of course we have to um I didn't even know where to stop because never did I think I'd see the day where I was most excited about pek on day one a pek cubitus not just the cubitus like there are overall I like we need to make this like very clear I have never seen mikica this excited about like a general group of watches in my life okay that might be slightly you haven't seen me at the Cartier but oh yeah that's true that's true that that's later dur in the day you know um for sure it's more exciting to me than normal I think honestly from a design perspective it's the first time I've seen PCH do stuff that I'm like seriously into like design language the color the use of brown the use of salmon isn't even my thing and I'm like this salmon looks hot the on the cola on the 6196 6196 to 5370 5370 and then cubitus rose gold brand dial 40 mm I'm I'm not even being controversial like I like it so let's talk about that a little bit so the big cubitus came out just in October like not long ago to already have a new one smaller Mo I'm sorry smaller case size 45 down to 40 same movement I got 45 yeah but it's Square I mean it's not 45 includ don't count the numbers don't count so this is only pressure so it's white and Rose what do you think so I mean I was really confused I think that was the initial thought that's normal for you yeah exactly I'm usually I'm like where am I that was the first question yes um and I think for me I loved sort of the bizarreness of the first cubitus launch right in a way that I think maybe you know made people question my tastes what do what do you mean by the bizar I I think it was so they really went into the launch with a bang and I think with the leak you mean or just no I think just the overall the pro the strategy right and I think 45 is a statement yeah that's a big watch to do such a brutish kind of case with that size is I would just say bizarre is the only word I can think of um I don't know if maybe the brand thinks of it that way like but I think you know you it's it's a statement I like what they're doing with it I think it was the way to get people to talk about it because I think in context and this might be a hot take I think these two cubitus or cubid ey are almost a little boring in comparison which I don't think is a bad thing at all boring but you want commercially more sort of palatable um here's my thing as well the the square I don't think it's as controversial as everybody makes out and I do think there's something to be said I'm now seeing having done like a bit of a cycle in the watch World um that Trends actually do make it to the brands eventually um and yes it's the 70s thing but these like angular shapes are like obviously kind of I don't know I I like it I like when something's different um I I like to be challenged um and I think cubitus actually I haven't seen it yet you've seen it um I'm ready for it okay Rich did everyone take PEX bait by like falling for the trick of wow crazy cubitus it's huge there's a weird complicated one and now they're just going to slowly like win us over with the right product yes I I think the answer is you know and it obviously it's a it's a it's a plan that we've seen before from from others for sure but I think like the the 45 Mill a obviously I've worn it like it doesn't wear like a 45 I'd say it wears like a 42 the 40 which I just got out of seeing probably wears more like a 37 it's quite small cuz I remember when it came out I was like I want the 3800 version of cubba disc I I I kid you not so before James and I went in to see it I was chatting with a gentleman who who works at at product development and he was wearing a 38 M I'm sorry 3,800 Noles and he's like this is what we're doing it really is the 3800 it is that size it is not I don't I don't know how to describe it it it is much smaller than you might think 40 mm to me is a Submariner right or or Daytona this is way smaller than that cuz also it's 40 mm with all the ears and measuring C of spanwise so the dial has to be basically 38 they really like what you're saying in there 10 10 great joke right Master comedian um I yeah I just like I think the reason why I'm still a little like just I need to see them in person of course yeah but it's more from the strategy side that I have this weird fascination with which is I think usually for something like this you would let the first sort of generation run a year I agree and then you would kind of come in being like let's revive the conversation in a new light this is sort of like like and my question to maybe you guys is I think it's I agree with Rich that it's intentional but do you think that it could be interpreted as sort of like they're walking it back a little in sort of that like boldness that the first one was I just think the world moves quick you know think so I think you're totally right and it's about consuma yeah I think you're totally right and I think if if there's one through line through everything that we've seen and we've already published like 50 stories on the site yeah is like people are producing commercial products to sell right it's like okay there's a Min repeater from long whatever but the the the small uh Whatchamacallit 185 there you go I'm a watch expert um that thing the the the odys is every Rolex obviously like people want stuff that they can put into a dealer it's going to move quickly the world is just different now and and and you know in many cases like the cub I happen to know like we can't keep in stock with Wasington Switzerland and and and at all dealers um but they want stuff that like people are going to walk in and buy and I think if you look around the world you go to you know Bond Street in London or Fifth Avenue in Manhattan like there are a lot of watches available for purchase uh and so I think Paddock May and I don't know this at all may have just said you know what instead of you know waiting year let's just pull it right up to washers and wonders and get it out there yeah I mean I suppose it doesn't really because both are in precious metal they're not really you know battling against their sort of Steel allation and percentages so they can kind of more freely produce to be clear these watches I think the price is like $76,000 like it's not a they they're pre they're gold and with a gold bracelet so like it's it's not a cheap thing um but it's you know it's something that people will want to buy continuing with pek yeah new krava oh my God 6196 for Rich yeah I've been waiting for this case which they use in the rare handcraft section it's like that 3837 krava they've had that case and it's been frustrating me for years that they don't offer a Col Trava in that case with that movement in particular with that movement yeah filled out um it seems like a real winner I mean the movement's already incredible we saw it before and the Aesthetics 6119 right 6119 yeah hobil um shout out to Mark po now the Aesthetics are really really good Fant I agree yeah the black the black indic sees and yeah I feel like and you know Rich has heard me talk about this all the time in the office maybe too much but I think for me what gets me so excited about the 6196 is that it finally I think balances out the krava collection for them totally age in a way that like and for me I'm not I'm not really a vintage guy at all right but for me the 5196 was such a cool thing from Paddock because it's in the same way that lunga appeals to me because what you can you can buy right now is very close to what maybe you loved about the brand as as it was relaunching Paddock moves fast Paddock sometimes not so much for me especially in the krava area the 5196 was just like that perfect time machine that almost like it gave you the closest thing into something that you could buy that was a modern watch but you could still get a taste of like what the old sort of paddock was like so I I I hear you yeah but I disagree okay and so the thing the thing about the 5196 is like for years I've been saying that an entry-level longa is way better than an entry-level ptic and in my mind always was the 5196 and to be clear like 5196 you used to be able to see in cases even they everywhere that movement was so small and so old for for that and to be clear the dial was incredible right it was a 572 Tony Brigade like it was exactly what I would want yeah and I had the opportunity to buy that watch a dozen times half dozen times and never chose to do it because it's like this just this movement is not a PE movement in the way that it should be for the year 2025 or 15 or or whatever isn't that kind of the origin story of the 96 as9 like these are all 96s in a way and I was just looking at the difference between a 96 and a 3796 which is the first modern followup to the 96 the 96 sub dial is lower than the 3796 and then the 5196 is even higher like you get to a point where the Aesthetics are just ruined by the original design it just doesn't look like the same thing anymore and we're back towards that original design that's exactly so this this to me you know now I'll have to be careful oh I'll have to do my homework before I say longa makes the best entry level watch because the caliber in the 5119 6119 and now the 6196 you know holds a candle to what we're talking about with longa but for years what was in the 5196 was really not at the same level at all yeah and I I saw the watch I I I like salmon dials the black and markers like it's just a killer I mean this is what a PCH Kar Trava should be and you know K travas are probably like nothing's easy to get from patch but they're probably among the easier watches to get from patch this could change that yeah I got to say I think a lot of the current col tropas just don't I mean I don't I don't think they feel like hetic like a lot of the current ones that before the 6196 like with the texture dial yeah the ones with the texture dial the sort of that like race car inspired stuff like doesn't seem like a krava to me you have got to go to the PCH Museum before you leave if you have the time because the Katra section is like it's insane yeah Ben do you want uh two minutes to talk about the what is it 5370 the brown might as well I mean yeah so there there's a 5370 is a split second Paddock so it's modular based on the watch this in the 5170 5172 when that watch came out in 2013 or so it was Platinum black dial I remember writing it I mean kind of like what we're talking about with the honey gold Odus I was just like banging away like this is the best watch ever and I basically said this was the best PCH phip that has come out in years and I meant it at the time because it had the case shape of a 1436 not 1463 so a super slim Split Second uh but it was big black and anal dial like what's not to love about that and pect produced that watch for so many years that it just kind of fell out of favor with collectors because at that I mean that that watch is a 200 plus thous like that's a meaningful purchase no matter who you are and it was just I don't want to say it was overproduced but they kept it in the catalog for so long that you could kind of get it and then they they pulled the black dial out and put in a blue dial which I didn't really love it was like a bright blue dial which not on my thing and so now that's gone and now we have it in rose gold with a two-tone Brown and cream en Amal dial which changes everything and I think really UPS the Anton on that watch yeah you're a man of brown so I'm a man i' I like a brown guys Brown is hot okay like brown is I I yes like not quite brown but Brown is the look I think it that dial looks I haven't seen it yet but it looks gorgeous it's amazing and so it's it's Trump L like it's a real enamel dial you know we were with a uh a very well-known independent watch maker yesterday and he was like look there's there's enamel dialing and then there's basically like you you basically do a standard plate puts some blast over it and looks on Amal and the two are not the same and what patch did here real shl multi-tiered you know two actually it's it's probably four plates but two different colors I mean it's the real deal stuff and it's rose gold so you got a much more kind of vintagey styles but second I I Adore that watch it's still big I would prefer it was 39 instead of 41 it's still thick you know but it is what it is it's a split it's a split exactly but gray watch for sure can I um just drop a random thing in the chat um cuz we didn't really talk about Rolex we talked about landw um aside from landwell I'm into the 1908 on the bracelet I think it looks really sick it looks amazing the bracelet is sick like why haven't we talked about this more yet yeah so here's a little piece of information that I that I found out recently the Platinum 19a current gen like the last generation is impossible to get a retail did you know that I can see that I believe people are dying for it you know like Rolex heads so people that like there's some people that will just only buy Rolex you can't get it but the the the new yellow gold on the yellow gold bracelet is am totally changes amazing and I think the bracelet even the way it's connected to the watch I'm like what is going on here isn't two bracelets from Rox in the same year sort of insane I mean you have a new bracelet on the land roller and new bracelet on the 1908 what do they call that bracelet Mica settimer um but I think you say that again settimer I'm not Italian uh I think the that points to this whole idea of me saying that the brands do actually listen to the consumer and uh I didn't it works differently to the Fashion World I'm still wrapping my head around it but um the bracelet thing is a clear indicator to me that that's they're giving us what we asked for also if there's a criticism to be made of Rolex it's everything is in the same oyster case and it either comes on Jubilee or oyster and this year like you were saying you know they're trying to get people to get people excited about buying watches they're offering exactly not that in their two lead products look I mean it's it goes without saying but I'll say anyway Rolex is the dominant brand in in watches and for the longest time you know people that made dress watches and and technically Innovative watches kind of didn't have to worry about Rolex you it's like oh we're over here doing some high-tech and like we want the nerves you know the 10 and the bends of the world so to speak and now everyone's got to worry CU like Rolex when they do anything people pay attention and you're totally right they're filling out the catalog yeah to have a lot of stuff and you know I said to somebody earlier it's like what I buy a land dweller I don't know I haven't seen it yet but I'm thinking to myself like I already have a Royal Oak it kind of feels like a like but now that they're like directly competing with a Royal Oak is insane right I mean like an A Day date which I own or a date just which I do not own never I would never compare them to a Royal Oak but this watch I really would if you look at the case shape you know the integrated bracelet a high-end movement yeah you're competing with Nautilus Royal Oak Etc yeah I mean not to be movement guy but like in two meetings yesterday with independent watchmakers K vs and rup both said this escapement might change the whole watch world so like that's what this is that's why I focus the story I I talk about a lot but you know you got to listen to stuff like that I'm here for the 1908 I think it's really classy I think is it classy yeah classy classy classy I think it's classy um I I'm into the black dial more I would say than white doal but I'm I'm paying more attention to that now when's the last time Rolex has done a straight endling bracelet like the 40s right like that little Gap between the cas andzy thanks to whatever commenter mentioned that and pointed that out to me this morning I was like oh that's pretty cool well I feel like for years the idea was that Rolex was one of the few brands that even though they didn't make an integrated bracelet they saw basically the case and the bracelet as one object the watch was a thing that's why it's so hard to buy a replacement jubile or an oyster all that they just don't want you to mess with it and for them to come out with this that changes the whole sort of perception of like what they see of bracelet as and then you go to the opposite right with the landwell where if you look on the back of it the spring bar is Tiny right so it's you're seeing all these like different ways of approaching a bracelet this year just like you said that I think from an engineering perspective I'm also really interested in like what are these assembly lines looking like um to actually switch over and like how far in advance you actually have to you know gear up so much Machinery in such a different way yeah that's not hard that's not easy to do with with this Bloomberg had a great story um I give them a lot of credit where they spoke to the designers of the mhm of the landweer they they said something like 5 to seven years for this but with that we have to wrap it up cuz I'm getting the the look from our man Dave so today we are seeing two well we've already seen a few but we're seeing cardier for this one C wait and tutor for the whole gang so tutor and cardier uh feedback will be coming tomorrow pretty psyched about that and uh stay tuned to hinki we've already published like like way too many stories like how many stories like just leaves us time to get drunk for the rest of the week yeah this is part that's all we do we don't we definitely don't work but tune in tomorrow we'll we'll see you then see you guys