Cartier Gem-Set Watches, The Chanel J12, New Panerai Models, and Nomos! | Watches and Wonders 2025

this week's episodes of hinki radio are proudly sponsored by our partners at UBS stay tuned later in the episode for what we're planning this year in celebration of all things horology and keep an eye out for the return of UBS House of craft hello and welcome to day three at watches and wonders we are of course here for another episode of linky radio recapping some of the great Watchers we saw today yesterday maybe even the day before it's been a hectic pretty fun day uh today lots going on lots of running around I'm joined by Rich Malika and Tim and uh yeah we've got lots of stuff to talk about I know I know especially I've got I've got a chance Malica and rich on the same show we got to do some cardia I guess right okay because we got a little bit of oishe in yesterday but there's 60 new watches some of them stuff I've never seen before or didn't know could be a watch oh really just more and more Panthers oh okay yeah Poma it's a big M teeth yeah but I feel like we should start with high level sort of you know important high level import what got you excited yeah gishe is amazing I love it uh it's like a stripped Down super industrial tank the all brush look I mean it's it's for me when I pick it up like I said I get the feelings of a vintage watch and that rarely happens with stuff that is Thoroughly Modern I don't mean that it's light I don't mean that it's not well made it's very convincing in it's very convincing as a rition and that's actually really hard to do many Brands just don't get it right um but in terms of commercial product I thought the tank Lou automatics were great the new gray dial in the tank Louie is amazing um really a lot of stuff from cardier that is like Ben was saying days ago super sellable um the new small Santos both in all steel and Tutone there a watch that references the galb from the 90s and the 80s the G sure uh yeah I thought it was really good can I ask you a question about the um gishe m i I really like it but I'm struggling with the fact that there's so much um level surface area obviously their name will like pronounced uh p on the side yeah like does it make it look kind of odd proportionally like that's a lot of surface area and obviously the apertures are quite small yeah how do you feel about that I think if there's one criticism of the watch it's the size of the apertures it's it's hard given the way that jump hours work to make apertures larger the discs would have to be larger therefore the movement and to keep the case the size that they did to make it a something I would even call readdition it has to be that size so then therefore the movement can't size up any further and the discs have to be that size I will say in the photos it's worse okay in the metal you have all of three maybe four numbers to look at and it's quite easy to tell what time it is I found it to be perfectly glanceable it's small but it's not imperceptible and I'm not saying that you can't tell what time it is and I probably can't to be honest I amum tried on Eric C's uh 97 96 cpcp version that night mhm kind of a different experience yeah the one difference in this watch versus the previous Edition and even the original is that the minutes aperture is a bit lower and I think maybe visually because they're so far apart it makes them look smaller um but it does I said even compared to the vintage ones it more directly references the 1928 Edition so the gishes is is a hard one to do a reedition of because everyone from the 20s and 30s is slightly different some like you were saying have bran cards and I'm going to use my American pronunciation there yeah some have some don't the first one that they made does not and it has that lower minutes register and they're wanting to be original to the original design um but yeah I do think it does make the the apertures look a little bit smaller okay yeah um there was a bunch of other stuff at Cartier including a lot of gem setting which obviously you know speaks to me uh I'm trying to remember those two Bangles were pretty cool but that sort of High jewelry watch hybrid that's like you know that's you're Bing out can we talk TR oh yeah okay I love the TR but people are either really into it or really freaked out by it but I figured it out it's holl bread ah okay I was talking to the David brothers and they were like come on mikica fellow fellow holla and I was like oh right yeah that's what it looks like um the the kind of or a unicorn horn I'm getting unicorn horn yeah yeah I think it's really beautiful uh especially in the plain yellow gold with the black strap it's you remember the weirdest thing it reminded me of like I held it and looked at it what popped up in my mind were the the candy Richard Murs uh Mel the Bon bone collection because of the like marshmallow yes the puffiness and there's like it feels it feels like they made a shape out of gold and then pushed air into it and it kind of like cuz there's like a surface tension to the way all the little noes kind of load up I called it we have this candy in the UK that's like Twisted marshmallows that are like really puffy and twisted does that have a hilarious name it's twirly puff it's G to be funnier than jly puff isn't it they're called plumps oh yeah yeah and it was and it was it was I wasn't even I I shouldn't even have bothered trying you can't yeah clearly you didn't read my story in the Sams no flumps and Jammy Dodgers and Jammy Dodgers yeah we love the TR I think it's it's interesting that they would have gone with the name TR instead of flump but you know well it means gred in French uh and I don't know in case you didn't know I speak French uh I don't I don't think it's like a commercial product I think it's just CTI flexing on their jewelry no I've never seen anything quite like it it's definitely not when I saw the photos in the press release the first thing I thought of was God I hope that arches to my wrist doesn't fit weird because I want to love it and it actually fit really really well on my wrist I think I was maybe at the top end of the spectrum where that Arch starts to be a problem like if you're above seven and a quarter not that anyone like needs help buying this watch I'm sure they would uh go and see it in person if they really wanted it but it's just a cool thing especially with the trend for weird shapes and like you know tonight there's an auction at soues with all these strange things and it's themed UFOs and that's really coming back and cardan knows what doing it's very 80s um it looks you know it references like some classic styles of CTI jewelry in the 80s I think they're kind of just having fun which is cool but um yeah K is always a good time absolutely I want to bring in our good buddy Tim here uh you know you saw pan right today I didn't get a chance to see them what uh what kind of struck you from them well first of all walking into the yeah it's quite a booth the underwater Booth was a nice uh J position between the the bay around all around um but but a few things caught my eye um first two updates to the luminor Mariner collection um and as they told me they're not super sexy updates but they're updates that people wanted and people have demand it from previous questions um 12% increase in in case sizing while increasing in uh movement size and and certain capabilities there also um what really was my personal favorite was the perpetual calendar um 45 mm uh the Platinum Tech um it's really nice uh obviously comes with the the crown guards that panai is known for and it also you comes in an alligator strap rubber strap and uh what I really liked was the fact that not all the complications were on the front um they had a couple on the back you had the power reserve on the back you got the um leape indicator on the back you got the month on the back and as they told me it was that's that's for you those complications are for you they're not they're not outwardly facing and obviously you know you have to take the take the take the watch off to see those so it was a really uh really nice I had a really nice time underwater with panai and got a really really nice booth and uh yeah there's some really classic updates there where are you at with the Panerai look and I'm not setting you up for criticism but I just want to give you some context walking around the streets of New York whenever I see a Panerai the guy is wearing tailoring like 80% of the time oh yeah ter so as someone who wears a suit every day and a tie which you're known for at this point Tim wears the suit and tie every day which by the way is Iconic why would I why would I why would I not I understand and I was like do we think Tim wears a tie on the plane confirmed uh I used to I used to wear a full Tom brown suit on the plane um for for many years uh now I go no tie okay um but it but I think about it I'm obviously wearing a Blazer though I mean come on okay got to wear a blazer so as a man of you know good taste and and seeding are you yeah that's a good question yeah where you at with panai as a brand and sort of the look cuz I think it it does translate at some level but I've never been able to understand how it does first of all so I don't own a panai however like I I do think and I come from a world of sport I'm a big Runner I'm a big athlete so um I I like the the the uh Heritage with diving that comes along with Panerai uh you know the the coloring of of the dial and the Lumar Mar collection I think I actually really like um and I think it really PA pairs well with tailoring um I don't uh for me I you know I'm maybe not the first watch I would buy maybe reach to my my collection um however I could see I could see it working its way in there at some point uh and I I do think it pairs well with it's it's interesting I've not seen that um but now I'll keep my eye out it's like you know you'll see it everywhere you know now it's like you know uh when you drive a car for the first time like oh I've never seen those anywhere and they just pop up everywhere now that you're noticing it so I'll report back in a few months time and and we'll we'll will see how many pan eyes I've seen on the streets but I think it actually could work well I want to see it someday I want to see you in a Panerai around the city you know I I like it uh you know I I tried them on today um that I I think they look really nice and I think that you know I am wearing the navy suit today really P Weare at the Navy dial so I think it it works well as we know I'm gunning for a panai return just because Mar everything comes back around and not to say that is not doing well but uh the sizing with Trends is currently a headwind you can't get around that but like I said when you see everyday guys around New York City it's a lot of pan there's a lot of men who never like took off the panai they like they put the Panay on in the 2010s and it's still it's still it is hard to remember how big a deal they were in 2008 like hug first story I ever wrote about a watch was a pan obsessed with rir still really love them my tastes have shifted just towards smaller watches because my wrists haven't gotten any bigger since 2008 I just thought I'd keep growing yeah but uh yeah it's a moment but there I I I love the look I really do um I I don't have a huge love of big watches but then summer comes along and I've got a couple big watches you put them on they're just fun I don't know how I don't know how how I think if I wore it with a suit I would feel self-conscious about it yeah if it didn't kind of slide under but then some of the Rat moves are pretty slim right well the best the best reference to me was that picture I sent you the other day when you were like who's I've never seen a picture of Mark Jacobs before and I burn James but um he's just wearing a Mickey MK t-shirt smoking a cigarette and the panai is like hanging off his wrist and I'm like that is perfect I mean to be fair my uh one my one of the biggest fans in my life of paniz and my wife who is a very tiny oh my God I forget but she Ador 44mm luminor on loose bracelets on cheap women Daren is what's up yeah yeah it's a good luck for sure and I will say the 44 I dra not on the 44 I'm going to tiny wrist and it wore small like it was big big on my wrist but it wasn't it wasn't hanging out for my wrist Bally it's not the same 44 as a as a you know a big Rolex diver or a giant brightling or a big IWC they wear a little bit differently a lug shape in that well look another look we're making some right turns some zigs and zags here so let's find another one you want to do a little bit of Chanel because you saw some stuff you were excited about right I obviously I don't know obviously I am a big fan of Chanel Chanel watch making uh they have Brilliant Minds at the Helm of the brand currently including their CEO of watchmaking frederi H I think his name is he's like a little he's an icon he also used to work with Mark Jacobs back in the early 2000s so he's like a man after my um they are obviously kind of interesting in the watch space given their recent acquisition of uh a minority stake in mbf they also own a minority stake in FP Roman gotier they're kind of like out here doing a lot in watch making the kesi connection the kesi uh kesing connection also they make business is fascinating uh it's huge it's varied it's uh they make a lot of the ceramic for a lot of the big Brands um so it's kind of interesting to see how much kind of influence they have and how much they take back from these smaller independent Brands so we had a good conversation about that they've got this newly designed well kind of like updated J12 in this navy blue ceramic which is to be honest with you when I look at kind of all the blue ceramic it's it's a trend you know uh obviously AP nowen multiple Brands this ceramic blue is like ilite compared to these other colors of of blue it's like a midnight Midnight Blue black uh it's just a little bit more sophisticated I would finishing is is a different as well cuz it's mat it's so stunning um and it's 25th anniversary of J12 they have this crazy flying toron with a diamond on the cage that's like insane and it's legit watchmaking uh they yeah they're like kind of killing it um and they're kind of doing it quietly and I think they are going for this sort of longterm uh approach in the way that frederi explained to to me just like they did with perfume 100 years ago they bought uh from the grass family you know the like the birthplace of perfume basically it's still the same family who produces Chanel number five and like they hope to do the same with watch making so I thought it was very interesting the blue ceramic looks great I I feel like I really like the idea of a ceramic watch and then they are mirror shiny almost all the time all shiny and flashy and weird and the funny thing is I feel like that was a bit of a calling card for previous J12 that almost liquid like smoothness that Pebble shape the roundness and the rest of it and then you see these in the mat and you just go like that is so SI it's so th it's subtle as well um and I think you know it's such an interesting choice it's an interesting to go with and I try not to lean too much into the gender neutrality conversation but obviously that's you know they're playing on that because that could work for men that could work for women I also think Chanel is not afraid to kind of own the fact that they are a brand for women uh and they're sort of proud of that um but they I think they're going to welcome all men into the fold probably quite soon and I will say U as a side note um around town you know they have watches and wonders ads U some some of the releases um and I feel like Chanel has my favorite one of those it's not even a picture of the watch it's it's not white it's not black it's blue yeah and I think that that I I noticed that when I when I came into town I I really like that you know it speaks to the power of the brand where they don't even need to put the watch on the ad people know what it is yeah I just think it's Chanel you know like you don't they don't really need help it's chel and and like look at the the business elements that you talked through at the top they have refused to approach watches like every other fashion brand they went no no we can do this our way with in 25 years 20 years uh so they start they they bought a manufacturer the name I can't remember skapes me in 1993 um and then they developed the J12 that came out in 99 2000 um and they've been doing like kind of crazy things ever since we were talking about this dial on this watch they have that's like shaped like a seamstress pin cushion the dial was developed by Jew so like kind of do crazy cool stuff and in a legitimate way yeah that's the level they're playing in for sure that's very cool cool special thanks again to our partners at UBS for their support of hinki radio last October hinki and UBS brought together some of the most influential personalities and brands in the industry to celebrate All Things watches this year we're partnering again with expanded events across the US in addition to our fall House of craft in New York stay tuned to hinki for updates on these events and other projects with our friends at UBS now back to the show all right speaking of great watchmaking you're just fresh back from Sha par correct yeah just walked in the door from it what do you think because you're a fan to begin with and they had some real variety this year yeah I'm a big fan to begin with and uh maybe I talk uh In Praise about the things that I do talk about but I'm extremely picky about modern watches um no and I I mentioned to the people at chopar who I've never met before when I was leaving I just said you know just that I am extremely picky and I just want to tell you when I tell you that I like stuff from the LC collection it's because I actually do like it and I think that they're doing great things um I think the new Quattro is like it's in precious metal I know it's expensive but it is what they're trying to do is similar to a pek discontinuing the 5711 they're most like wanted for product and they're making something very very similar to the 1860 and salmon in different colors yes but that watch wears so so well and it's either 38 or 39 I didn't check my notes before getting on the podcast but it was just on my wrist as someone who's wearing a 33 mm watch it wore so so well the tweaks that they've made to the case and of the of that watch and other luc's and will continue to carry out through the other models in the collection they're not in a hurry to make those design tweaks um but when they come out with a new model whether it's a new it's more about the movement if they make a tweak to overall aesthetic or the movement they will put that new case design in but they're not in a rush um and they I don't know if they're going to change the case to the 1860 which is what I asked them specifically about um because everyone loves that watch so much much but uh yeah I just I walked back in the door had that Gua on my wrist uh for like most of the meeting everything was okay they showed that watch second I put it on my wrist and continued to look at other watches but just kept that one yeah that's nice yeah very nice yeah so so I like a wash yeah congratulations we're proud of you I can go home now yeah okay cool watches in one is 2025 Rich for and likes modern watches that's great well I'm let's ter one that I really liked and it was a meeting you guys didn't come with I I was with tantan I haven't been to a nomos meeting in a few years that just the schedules didn't line up and this year they you know I I have a a a well documented nerd level taste for multiple time zone watches travel watches and you know no most has had uh had their you know worldtimer uh the Zurich and such for some time and now they have a new version which in my opinion is in like a more everyday kind of friendly cheerful kind of outlay which is is this Sport Club worldtimer it's in eight versions there's two standards and there's six Le's they all have their own name the each color has their own name if you're wondering I like volcano and Glacier neither of those really seem to link up with the colors but they look amazing two two opposite ends and polar yeah exactly one's like a dark Steely gray with some reddish accents and one's like a light blue the glacier with like a tan accent and some some light red as well and it's a a new movement it's very thin uh it it largely captures the same function that you'd see in their other kind of multiple time zone watch their GMT um or the you know their worldtimer uh so you have the push button action that allows you to basically have a little sub dial that's your home time and you sync the two and then when you travel you literally just update a ring for the city to put the new time zone you're in at 12 and as you do that the ring adjusts as the hour hand jumps it's just clever and if you've ever played with these sorts of things and I'm sure some of you listening will usually you press it three or four times and the three or four quite crispy and then they get softer and then they they like half actuate I just sat there just hidden again and again and it just spins it just goes and goes and goes it's nicely made I really like the colors I mean Noble is just like it's lovable the product they make is lovable it's also you know outside of things like the fair which is a traditional 24-hour worldtimer this is more of a GMT with a worldtimer aesthetic um unlike something like the fair they don't really have a ton of competition we're talking about $4,000 price point on a bracelet if you want I prefer it on like the aoy style strap i' probably just wear Nat um yeah I I I it's I I love being excited about something from nomos uh so that makes me happy yeah you came back with a giant smile on face I me like an GMT this is this is why I do this and it it doesn't look like my other 20 gmts this is great another one to add to the bat yeah for sure okay cool nomos is a cool one because it's either you start at nomos and love the design cuz they've done a great job of keeping the look of the brand the same ESP over the last two years but adding in a bunch of color which is cool um but to get back to my original point you either start by loving nomos or maybe you eventually after a long time be like oh I have to own a nomos now so my thing with noos was always just extreme uh decision fatigue because there the you know let's say that if if noro makes 30 different models 28 of them are very similar like they have this very specific you know bow house derived work work bun Style aesthetic and and it really does flow across so like how do you pick between a Tetra and and you know Tango Matic and this in a that and they used to have a GMT in that model which I really like um and I've always had kind of an an appreciation for the club especially if you remember when they first launched the club they did like a a silver with like the California dial it was just kind of fun and it was like I think just under two brand which is just very reasonable for what they're offering take it up to something like this you know you're spending a bit more money but I think you're getting something one one that doesn't feel like it came from any other brand uh and two I it the the use of color to to extend upon your your second point there the use of color really helps me break up the decision fatigue because there's a function I like there's a bunch of colors so they're very obviously quite honest also just credit where credits do I usually think that red on a watch is very difficult red and yellow very tough colors to do they have a red I've never seen on a watch before that's really nice a bunch of people in the booth were wearing it it suited like different skin colors like looks really weird on my skin you think yellow is weird too you like love yellow doxes yeah but they do a great yellow I just think I don't think yellow's weird yellow is a very hard color to get right because the moment you make the shiny oh the the Rolex yellow is a massive yeah that's great clarifying cuz that's and there nice Rolex is yellow leans just slightly orange which I really like you like a bright yeah if it's going to be yellow make it yellow make it yell make it sunshine yeah bananas yeah okay cool for sure just checking yeah uh speaking of color p p oh was so fun um we PJ was so fun I went twice I went yesterday for a vintage presentation yeah which was fun and then you came back and told me you need to go to P I literally was like where is box of stuff that you were excited about they sat down with a really beautifully designed sort of turquoise leather briefcase wasn't just like a pelican no no it was stunning branded not James Stacy style stickers uh the the the very lovely uh Heritage director am opens the Box stunning array of stone dials shaped watches um so I dragged you that today and then we got to see the new polo 79 in white gold different super different in white gold I said wearable maybe more wearable than yellow um what did you think definitely more wearable I think that comes with the territory of white vers yellow especially in a wash with a full bracelet like that and such a distinct design um but funny part about the Vintage appointment is it seems like word's gotten around cuz our appointment was quite busy it was massive I was like where what happened to my oneon-one so how many people would you tell about this vintage I I thought I was special went right into the WhatsApp yeah like guys everybody come to the booth and no it's cool to see the Vintage because then you sort of take away the different elements and then you can sort of match them up to the modern releases um and there's a direct reference for the new 60s obviously if you can't imagine it's from the' 60s it's from 69 right uh then new women's line uh quite small uh asymmetric shape I think they're kind of cool actually yeah it's a bit like a television shape is what we call in the in vintage land in television got it how sophisticated we 60 yeah yeah the story's on the site story is live now on the site um check it out.com yeah who wrote that one oh I'm not sure uh yeah know I love it it's got a bit of a reference to the Warhol with the Steep case too um we saw a new warhall we saw an insane new warh they have a warhall in the be uh they have who uh they have wait uh they have an opal dog mesmerizing pple dial with a very very tiny baguette sapphires on each of the steps yeah and then a row just in case just in case a row of sapphires also on the case back yeah uh it was it's just an insane thing but I I the worst part about coming to this is that you seem to leave every Booth liking the most expensive watch I know at least for me and maybe that's just uh my personality no I think that's most people um but when it's insane like that uh on a whole another level then it's easier to make the case of like yeah well that's fine then you know I do want to I want to run the clock just briefly because I just realized where we started this morning I was quite excited the IWC ler 35 absolutely rips on wrist it's like I guess it's about two grand less than a 40 it's a Val flurer movement so it's richmont in-house it's not iwc's inh if that matters to you by the 40 I guess uh I I think the sizing is more important on something that's time and date it does rip it rips it rips and it rips on your wrist and my wrist and your wrist and probably your wrist I think it's 9,950 something like that which is that's a Punchy price point there's a lot of competition at 10 grand black dial white dial and it wears like 35 I will say the rose gold is very rose but the dial is siose gold so all it made me think was like that that new uh monoface yeah with the Millan bracelet which is just stunningly gorgeous please check this out on the website even if you're not like if you're in your mind like reverso I don't the dial texture matched with that bracelet it's gorgeous it's like it's like it's like the gold created something in its own world and brought it to us wow it feels like that came right out of the minds wow what a visual it's very cool and and I think I got a little bit of that from the 35 really impressed with the way that they matched the dial it's not like an exact match but it's like the Hue corresponds really nicely to the pink of the brace like it's just it's done really well and you looked great in the rose gold yeah I I enjoyed it you know it's one of those things where I like the 40 quite a bit and I think that after with you know two years on the market they've kind of gotten to a point where people understand how it sits in the world of the Nautilus and now the cubitus and the Royal Oak and the Alpine Eagle we could do this for about 25 more minutes um but I I really thought the watch was impressive I I liked much of the lineup that they had this year but like if you're looking at the tray of it all of us started just picking up the 335s oh my God the other I mean we were neglecting the 40 a little bit like the the green one for the F1 film I think that's quite an interesting color I don't remember the last time I saw like a metallic olive green with gold accents and you know tantan big green fan so we should get his his sort of feelings on on that but you wrote the story about they're calling that I mean people around here are calling that the Brad Pit I don't name is is his character's name who's he's here right now actually I he's going to be on the show in just a couple of minutes oh and that's where it cuts um but you not fa you wrote the story about the the customized version and Cooper zic had made it uh how close is it it's not that close like I think they share like a a similarity but that one's based on the SL got which is like a different case shape you know they're all from that that same orang nerve line but the new the the one for the F1 movie uh which is part of several watches for the movie but this is the one that Brad Pitt's character wears uh is said to wear in the film I haven't seen the movie um but uh I think I think it's they kind of took that inspiration and then fitted into how they kind currently run the line cuz I I believe the version that he was wearing in the Spy shots didn't have you know like the cross check uh grid style dial and that sort of thing but yeah I wanted to squeeze that in at the end of the episode because I I just thought those 35s are sweet and the other plus is is uh with a small watch like a 35 even when they put all the links in when it closes it fits my wrist unlike a fulls sizee 40 has you know like five spare links and I've said this before uh for people who listen a lot those integrated bracelet sports watches are two different things sized and unsized it's you you're getting you're missing like 30% of the it's constantly like this yeah I mean sometimes we get handed ones that must have eight spare links and I like you could literally just like you watches but okay anyways that's the episode for today that's day three I hope we covered some of your favorites if not let us know in the comments and we can get it into tomorrow's episode we've got a very busy schedule tomorrow all over town I get to see my favorites one one of my favorites from the show with doca and they've got a GMT so James is going to be in a good mood I think and I hope you guys enjoy the episode and we'll see you tomorrow thanks so much for being on guys nice